Wayla was already poised for stardom shortly after first opening its doors on the Lower East Side in 2019, when seemingly everyone in NYC was salivating over its noodle-wrapped meatballs, clamoring for tables and snapping selfies. Even now, years later, prime-time reservations for chef Tom Naumsuwan’s homestyle Thai food still aren’t easy to come by. His attention to ingredients, focus on fresh flavors and market-inspired menus have folks filling up Wayla’s tables night after night. Lucky for you, there’s a seat with your name on it right here.
You know that first bite of green curry that instantly clears your sinuses and makes your eyes water? That sharp, on-fire feeling isn’t just heat—it’s science. Capsaicin, the compound that makes chili peppers spicy, attaches to receptors on your taste buds, allowing ions to push through. In other terms, it’s actually opening your taste buds, heightening your sensitivity to flavor. More and more Thai chefs in the city are cooking more food that is true to them, and it’s my personal theory that this has made the New York Thai food scene hotter—and better than ever.
I’m a Brooklyn-based food writer who comes from a restaurant family in the South—one full of Thai chefs (who exclusively spend their free time eating at other Thai restaurants). I’ve spent my life immersed in Thai food, and let me just say that it has been exhilarating witnessing the renaissance that Thai food is having in the city. More and more Thai chefs are opening restaurants that reflect their culinary history and identity, the (fantastic) results are evident on the plate.
Between the highly-regional Isan spots slinging skewers with playful cocktails in the West Village and highly-honed spots exclusively serving khao mun gai, here are a few of our favorite Thai restaurants.
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