Alchemy, Texas (CLOSED)

Kansas City 'cue booster Josh Bowen (John Brown Smokehouse) turns his attention to smoked meats from the Lone Star State at this Jackson Heights roadhouse, in the former Ranger Texas Barbecue space. The menu highlights Texan standards—brisket, beef ribs, pork sausages—but diners can also dig into offbeat specials, such as frog legs and smoked lamb belly. Plus, the experimental pit master remixes Texas BBQ with seasonings from nearby Bengali spice shops, infusing sauces with chamomile and black tea, and adding nutty fenugreek to a dry rub with guajillo and pasilla chilies. Wash it all down with beers from Legends sports bar, which shares a space with the 40-seat eatery—Bowen's only decorative contribution: red-and-white checkered tablecloths.