The Park

The current digs of this former taxi garage echo the greenery of the nearby High Line with a 30-foot bamboo stalk smack in the center of the dining room and a well-tended garden patio out back. Would that were true of the menu. Seafood gets heavy play, yet the ceviche, mussels and Park Paella are merely serviceable. Sirloin and lamb, however, are large and luscious. Prices and attitude go up as the sun goes down; the eager transformation from restaurant to crowded bar-club is a reminder that food isn’t really the draw here.