Getting off the train at East Melbourne has hitherto been the preserve of sports enthusiasts and Hilton stayers. A new café-cum-wine bar has just given us another reason to disembark.
It’s easy to walk right past the white building with gold trimming as it’s next to Laurent bakery with the same colour scheme, but keep an eye out for the corner of Powlett and Wellington Parade. Persillade is the project of husband-and-wife Aidan and Tanya Raftery, whose expertise shines through when they greet, seat, water and spiel you within minutes of walking through the door. Service is sharp, clever, seamless and generous.
The wine list has some hangovers from the previous venue, Europa, meaning quite a few Greek wines are on the list. European bottles dominate, with a smattering of naturally made examples. The Thymiopoulos Vineyards Young Vines Xinomavro 2012 at $10 a glass is upfront with plum and cherry characteristics, but finishes on very tannic notes.
On this night, a ham-hock terrine that is held together in its own gelatine, aspic-style, sits on the charcuterie board next to thickly sliced coins of wild boar salami, a chicken-liver brûlée with a shattering burnt-sugar top, and a house-pickled salad to balance all the salt and fat. At $22, it’s probably one of the smartest planks of meat we have seen in Melbourne. Pair this with a moody, expressive, personality-driven Panevino Peggio 2 – a natural red wine from an Italian ex-baker – to really get what Persillade is all about.
Feel like taking home an interesting bottle on the way from the station? Persillade have a retail licence and all bottles are listed with their retail price. To drink in, just add $10 corkage.
You can get whatever you want with Persillade: a late night coffee, a breakfast congee, or wine to take home. Just don’t ask for spirits: there’s none in the house.
