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At my core, I’m a simple woman. I enjoy a fancy cocktail and love sharing small plates, but when it comes down to it, it’s the no-muss, no-fuss experience that really speaks to me. And beloved Abbotsford watering hole Lulie Tavern delivers exactly that: effortless dining and drinking, with zero fuss.
I'd be lying if I said I hadn't spent a few Saturdays here in my younger years — holed up in the always-buzzing front smokers' area or tucked in a corner, cradling a beer and some wings. But weekends at Lulie are a different ball game from the quiet Monday night I've turned up for dinner. The first thing I notice is how curated the space is. To be clear, I don't mean that in a contrived way, but rather, a curation of sensibility — every detail feels like a love letter to rock and roll, the '70s, music, food and good drinks. Tom Petty croons over the speakers, memorabilia covers the walls, and patrons chat to staff from the stools that line the bar while a disco ball spins slowly, casting flickers of light from the ceiling.
It’s a common refrain that most bars don’t hold up in the cold light of day. What feels sexy and cool at 3am becomes a horror show of sticky floors and mystery stains once the last drinks are called. But co-owners Jon-Lee Farrell and Brendan Kennedy have hit that elusive sweet spot: a venue that transitions seamlessly from a low-key weeknight hangout to a vibey, bustling weekend destination.
Large booths line one side of the room, and with the ease of an American girl raised on promises, I slide in and prepare to order my body weight in fried food.
Unsurprisingly, that’s the name of the game here. We kick things off with Lulie’s take on the iconic Whopper ($17): a beef patty topped with American cheddar, onion, pickles, lettuce, tomato, house sauce and ketchup. It’s fresh, juicy, and well-cooked with the strong onion and pickle presence keeping things from feeling too heavy. The Dead Ringer ($18) — a fried chicken burger with jalapeño mayo, American cheddar, pickles and lettuce — and the Cheeseburger ($14) are similarly fresh and well-executed.
I think I’m discovering the joy of Lulie’s food with each calorie-laden bite. Because yes, this is American diner fare — rich, fatty, and cardiology-disapproved — but made with Australian produce and Melbourne hospo standards. The chicken is juicy, the buns are light and fluffy, and the acidity levels are spot-on. What could easily leave you feeling regretful instead leaves you satisfied — in every sense of the word.
This trio represents the more “classic” end of the burger menu, and honestly, it’s where I tend to gravitate (no muss, no fuss, etc.). The Whole Lotta Love ($18) — a beef and bacon burger with American cheddar, onion rings, jalapeños, burger sauce, and BBQ sauce — is usually the sort of thing that even I, a self-confessed glutton, would consider a step too far. But it’s jammy without being too sweet, and the crunch of the bacon and onion rings plays beautifully against the soft bun and juicy patty. The pickled jalapeños bring a much-needed hit of acidity, and the overall effect is… excellent?
Smoky, decadent and so wrong it’s right, this burger sparked a small internal reckoning — and not the usual gut-to-toilet kind. It’s proof that, in the right hands, a little muss can be a very good thing.
The Mad Dawg ($17) — a cheese kransky with house sauerkraut, American mustard and ketchup on a hot dog bun — is further evidence of that. It arrives at the table in all its over-the-top-perverse-glory. Heaping sauce, glistening with fat and looking intimidatingly difficult to eat. But the sausage is snappy and smoky, and the kraut briney and vibrant. It honestly didn’t have a right to be this good, and it was probably my favourite of the night.
Wash it all down with a pint of Lulie Lager ($14) or even a bottle of Doom Juice ($50) if you’re trying to keep a semblance of elegance. The cocktails are fun and explorative, but unless it's a Martini, between you and me, no cocktail will ever beat a lager when you’re knee-deep in fried food.
The sides are also worth mentioning — the fries ($11) and onion rings ($12) are paragons of their respective genres. The fries strike a satisfying middle ground between chip and fry. At the same time, the onion rings hold their structural integrity, allowing you to take a clean bite without dragging out the entire onion. My only complaint is: Where. Are. The. Deep. Fried. Pickles? For the love of all that is holy, I just know Lulie could do them justice (see above re. execution of onion rings), and they would be an excellent addition to the menu.
Aside from pickle-related melancholy, I'm a happy girl. Wings ($13) are crispy and juicy, the potato salad ($10) is creamy and moreish. It would also be remiss of me not to say that Lulie has some of the city's best vegan and vegetarian American-style food. Their Vegetarian or Vegan Whopper ($18) is a worthy homage to the classic (which is a worthy homage to HJ's). And the vegan buffalo chicken tenders ($12) are just as crispy and juicy as their meaty brethren.
Lulie is a good time no matter when you visit — it just depends on the kind of night you're chasing. A low-key pool game and a burger on a Monday? Great. A rowdy Saturday on the Full Moon Fever rooftop? Also great. Either way, you're eating a burger. Either way, it's all fun.