It was love at first encounter with Bar Spontana, its selling points reading like my own personal wish list with every box getting a big tick. Authentic and creative Thai food? Yes. Plenty of experimentation, pickling and fermentation? Triple yes. Wine bar status? If a smart list of great grape stuff is on offer, I’m in like a flash, no need to ask twice.
But there were also plenty of unexpected wonders at Bar Spontana (like one of the greatest cocktails I’ve ever tasted – more on that later) that swept my partner and I off our feet on our very first visit. This shouldn’t have been a surprise given the origins of its name – ‘spontana’ means ‘spontaneous’ in Esperanto, a universal language created in the 19th century to help diverse Europeans understand one another.
Another pleasant surprise was the warm ‘lived-in’ quality of the venue, despite it only being about a month old. Bisected into a curiously loungy front space with open windows and a long, narrow dining room aglow with the type of lighting reminiscent of a Thai city at sundown, here’s a cosy sanctuary you could spend all night comfortably drinking in – and if it weren’t for the late hour (we’d just had a few knock-off drinks at nearby Waxflower), we certainly would have.
Bar Spontana is tucked away down a Brunswick backstreet so you’ll need to fire up your Google Maps if you’re after a drink, but once you settle in and breathe in all those glorious, gingery-garlic Thai aromas, you’ll probably be tempted to stay for dinner as well. It’s a project from bartender duo Josh Hodges and Caleb Baker of Mr West renown, so of course, a crazy-good cocktail or two is also an essential part of the experience.
But first, we start with other drinks. A Trans-Caribbean Night Rambler from the spirits menu is a nectary rum that comes with an optional ginger beer, and together they go down a gently spicy and floral treat. A Good Juice pink sangiovese is racy and bright, setting the tone for all the punchy snacks to follow.
A paper-lined plate of fried enoki mushrooms is an exceptionally addictive starter, a little bit like pork floss, and slightly tacky-textured and oily in the most sumptuous way. We’ve opted for the Feed Me menu, which is excellent value at just $55 a head. Our waiter faithfully brings us plate after plate: a trio of skewers (ox tongue, octopus and pork jowl) with condiments, house-fermented Esan sausage with glass noodles and cabbage, and a generous portion of charcoal chicken smothered in luscious lemongrass paste that we hoover up with an extra side of sticky rice. The latter we also roll up into little balls with our hands to dip into all the savoury, sour and sugarcane-sweet sauces that grace our plates.
Of the rich meaty skewers, it’s the pork with tamarind, coriander root and garlic that takes out gold – the octopus, though fresh and creamy, is a little chewy – but there’s a smoky charcoal kiss in every bite, and each marries perfectly with its pairing condiment. The chef in charge of such delights is Pipat “Noomie” Yodmunee (Magic Mountain Saloon, Rice Paper Scissors) who’s no stranger to delivering crowd-pleasing Thai. But the stuff here is far more regionally inspired, influenced directly by Yodmunee’s own mother’s cooking and the delicacies of Esan cuisine.
Another highlight is the Esan sausage, which surprisingly – spontaneously, rather – was served on the night we visited with a charred green chile relish. Not usually part of the dish, our waiter recommended it based on a quick chat about our spice tolerance, and that’s just the sort of neighbourly service that wowed us at Bar Spontana.
The natty-leaning wine list is a night-long temptation but the other wild-crafted drinks here are well deserving of a look in, too. My partner’s sake and tonic is served separately, to be mixed to his own taste, and my fresh tequila cocktail sings with the summeriness of ripe watermelon.
A glass of La Sirene’s taproom-exclusive L’Apricot beer concludes the night, all snappy and complex and alive – but not before we’re successfully seduced into ordering dessert. We’ve chosen the toffee cake, which is served warm with chunky hot cashews and an inviting scoop of coconut ice cream. Not too sweet, it’s gratifying just like a homemade pudding. Sigh, one more drink then.
Now here comes that cocktail I mentioned earlier, the one I said could be the best I’ve ever had (a waitress suggested it with a knowing smile).It’s the Spro Tini: a wild concoction of gentian, cinnamon, lacto nectarine and coffee from the local roaster neighbours at Disciple. At first sip, it’s not hard to understand why this is one of the bartenders’ faves. The gentle spice and fruitiness at play with the bitterness and creaminess is a rocket launch into next-level cocktail territory. Yes, Hodges and Baker are at the helm of such creations, but they’ve also brought Nathan Beasley into the fold. Here’s a man who was twice crowned the best bartender in Australia. So if you need any more convincing to try the Spro Tini, or any other cocktail at Bar Spontana, let it be that.
And the food is a red-hot hit. From the pickled watermelon skins that balance out the richness of our chicken, to the dried chilli, cucumbers and cabbage salad playing soothing allies to our fiery, funky sausage, Yodmunee’s mastery of balance here is marvellous. Duck in the next time you’re in the area – you’re guaranteed no shortage of delicious and spontaneous surprises.
Time Out Melbourne never writes starred reviews from hosted experiences – Time Out covers restaurant and bar bills for reviews so that readers can trust our critique.
