A slightly thick, freshly pressed corn tortilla does its best to wrap around piles of fillings so good it’s impossible to choose a favorite here. Armando de La Torre and his son, Armando de La Torre Jr., have built an L.A. taco brand whose foundation is in the very name of the business. Guisados, flavorful hours-long braised and stewed meats and vegetables, are what make these so special, whether you’re opting for the spicy cochinita pibil with pickled onions ($3.79) or the mushrooms with cilantro and queso fresco ($3.45). Of course we’re also partial to the lightly battered fish taco ($4.25) and the tamales ($4.75) are killer. Can’t decide? Get the sampler ($9.50) made of six mini tacos whether you’re dining in Boyle Heights, Downtown, Echo Park, Pasadena, Burbank, West Hollywood, Beverly Hills or Hermosa Beach.
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