Littlefork (CLOSED)

Hollywood's dining wasteland gets a breath of fresh air with Littlefork, the latest from Dave Reiss (the Brig, A-Frame). The cozy, minimalist space takes on a Scandinavian feel via printed wallpaper, faux wood panels, tons of raw blonde wood and an open-roof patio. (Unfortunately, the gray felt banquettes don't do much to quiet the Saturday night roar.)  

But what’s most exciting about Littlefork is the return of lauded chef Jason Travi. Responsible for Frâiche during its Culver City heyday and rooted in seasonal Italian cooking, the toque has turned over a new shell with his inspired ode to seafood dishes of the Atlantic Northeast. Clams can be found in chowder ($9) or in cakes ($6), while oysters take form on the half shell or in delicious sliders ($10) layered with pickled hot peppers and tartar sauce. The menu is divided into bar snacks, large plates and a hefty selection of small plates—with a section devoted to apple wood smoked proteins from, yes, fish to meat. The brisket is a must-order dish, plated with three types of mustard and slices of bread for the ultimate DIY sandwich.

What to eat: It's easy to have a great meal without breaking the bank as all plates cost under $28 and most are around $12. The best way to experience the breadth of the menu is with smaller plates. Start with malt vinegar pork rinds ($4), crispy head cheese ($6) or crispy oyster sliders ($10). Don't miss out the apple wood smoked items, of which brisket and pork belly are strong contenders.

Where to sit: Warning: this place is loud when packed during peak service (i.e. Friday and Saturday nights). Go for the alfresco patio to have a slightly quieter dining experience.

What to drink: Barman Dino Balocchi curates a limited wine and craft beer list and crafts an expert cocktail list. Gin and Tonic ($12) goes down quick and easy, with a mix of lime, ginger, bonal and housemade tonic, while Thai Town Mule ($12), flavored with Thai basil, peppercorns and house made ginger beer, tastes like an exotic stay-cation.