Remember when everyone was talking about the return of fine dining? For a while, it seemed like white tablecloths and fixed menus were going to be the gold standard for dining out (or, at least, for those who could afford it). Now it seems the pendulum has swung in the opposite direction, that of the casual food hall where one menu is unheard of and multiple concepts give diners a "choose your own adventure" feel. Yesterday, Stir Market opened on Beverly Boulevard, another addition to this growing trend. The 4,000 square foot space from chefs Jet Tila and Chris Barnett boasts a number of stations: a rotisserie counter, a salad and sandwiches counter, a wine and snack bar, an artisan bakery, and an espresso bar. There are also retail products that can be picked up, and take-away options for those who don't want to hang out in the communal space. And, of course, there's brunch.
The market is being described as a "European food hall experience," but at this point, can we really call it European? Let's set aside Grand Central Market, which is slowly turning into an artisanal wonderland (Have you seen the new oyster bar??), and consider more recently opened projects channeling a food hall aesthetic. Playa Provisions, which popped up this past summer, offers a restaurant, ice cream parlor, whiskey bar and brunch spot, all in an open space that lets you pick and choose where you want your drink, dinner or dessert. Anaheim gained a beautiful food hall in May with the Anaheim Packing District, featuring two levels that house a grilled cheese shop, Vietnamese cafe, brewery, soul food restaurant, popbar, speakeasy, and more. Eataly is supposed to come to Westfield Century City in 2017, and we are waiting any day now for Sherry Yard and Sang Yoon's Helms Bakery and food hall to open, which will feature a pizza oven, rotisserie, gourmet deli and sit-down cafe.
Is it the choice? The fact that you can pick up a sandwich at one counter, a slice of pie at another, then consider a glass of pinot noir while gazing at the wine bar across the room? It's certainly not the price that appeals to us—if anything, labeling a food hall "gourmet" (as so many of them do) only raises the price tag. Those oysters at Grand Central Market cost $3 and up for a shell; when you consider that the hall has served as a bastion for affordable grocery shopping since 1917, its changing vendor lineup causes more-than-mild discomfort. Stir's prices are on par with other restaurants in the area: $9-$12 for a sandwich, $8-$13 for salads and $14-$19 for rotisserie items. You could stop by for a smoked salmon BLT, then easily stay for a coffee (from Intelligentsia) or a cookie from the bakery. Or, you know, you could head down the street to the Original Farmers Market, continuing your meal elsewhere. It's all about options.
Stir Market is now open at 7475 Beverly Boulevard; 8am-9pm daily.