This bar and restaurant in the Roundhouse concert venue has won much applause, but there has been a recent change of cast in the kitchen and our dinner was a mix of hits and flops. A cold, rubbery soft-poached egg took centre stage in a dish purportedly starring asparagus and miso butter.
Yet the kitchen is capable of excellent fusion cooking, as shown in a memorable plate of fennel with feta, pistachios, salted caramel, lemon zest and dill. Lush smoky baba ganoush sparkling with pomegranate seeds led the meze board; beetroot purée with nigella tasted great but was too watery. Beautifully crisp calamares had been winningly sprinkled over yuzu aïoli and chilli jam; in contrast, desserts, including a tropical twist on tiramisu, lacked finesse. The intelligent wine list starts at £18 per bottle and is brief but diverse, including 15 by-the-glass options.
Alternatively, there are Camden Town ales on draught, a wide choice of bottled beers and an appealing cocktail list. Once the concert-goers have taken their seats, noise diminishes and the red and wood-toned room transforms into a fabulously chilled spot well worth considering as an alternative to standalone restaurants.