Trinity

Trinity remains Clapham’s best restaurant, a destination for special occasions and celebratory splurges. It gets the right balance of smart (neat napery, cutting-edge cooking) and casual (smiling staff, hubbub of conversation). Recent price hikes might cause some eyebrow-raising (main courses now cost £25-£38), but the cooking is as good as ever.

Our meal began with appetisers of plum radishes served with taramasalata, good bread and outstanding freshly churned butter. A starter of pig’s trotter resembled a fish finger, but pierce the breading and chewy fragments of flavoursome pork spill out. Crackling, poached quail’s egg and a slick of gribiche made such a pretty garnish it seemed a shame to spoil it. Less successful was a main course of rather chewy beef rump, with the accompanying barley and hemispheres of onion giving it a slightly gruel-like appearance and taste. Things improved again with baked stone bass, served with a courgette flower filled with a delicate scallop mousse, seaweed and samphire. Desserts might include cherry soufflé, or lemon sponge with ricotta.

The wine list and service are exemplary, if aimed at lightening the embarrassment of City bonuses. The only irksome detail is that filtered tap water carries a £1.50 per head surcharge. If you’re looking for something more affordable, try the much cheaper nearby offshoot, Bistro Union.