There’s a gentleman’s club feel to this grand, Grade II-listed Victorian building (once a library) and the high ceiling, book-lined gallery and crisp napery convey a sense of occasion. It’s an established haunt of sharp-suited power brokers and Westminster politicians who enjoy a fine-dining menu of updated rustic and regal pan-Indian dishes.
We liked the sliced veal escalope with its toasted coriander seasoning – an innovative complement to creamy tomato-cumin sauce. The spongy uthappam griddle cake made for a dressy and tasty spin on South Indian street food, the ground rice and lentil base glistening with a topping of softened onions and green chillies. Cumbrian farmers have chef Vivek Singh to thank for his signature Herdwick lamb curry. The meat wasn’t as tender as we’ve enjoyed on previous visits and could have done with longer on the stove, but the masala was spot-on, the browned onion paste fried to a russet-brown and spiced with ginger, cardamom and fiery chillies.
The kitchen excels in seafood preparations. A whiting fillet, cooked with precision, came with a marvellous rich coconut cream infused with ginger and turmeric. Prices are pegged at the sharp end, although the set menus are affordable. Service is professional, but doesn’t quite match the exemplary cooking.