Patogh

Chargrilled Persian kebabs are the order of the day at this tiny Edgware Road eaterie. A variety of charcoal grilled, lamb and chicken offerings come either well done, normal or ‘juicy’. The latter of which is no understatement – a skewer of lamb pieces was all moist and coated in earthy spice marinade while boneless chicken came so tender it could have been a crooner in a past life. Minced offerings were less convincing: lamb tending towards the bland and greasy, with a strange bend in the middle. Sides impressed, though, including buttery saffron rice and a ‘big special bread’ that came as a giant oval of smoky, buttery flatbread that was as much sesame seed as dough: soft and pillowy at the edges leading in to air pockets and pleasingly crisp char-marked at the centre.

It’s very much a no-frills dining experience – cash only, BYO booze, plus a tiny downstairs that leaves you knocking elbows with fellow diners, but that’s part of the charm. The bargain prices are enjoyed by Arab tourists and a post-pub crowd, all in an environment whose rugged plasterwork makes you feel as though you’re dining inside a cave soundtracked by Middle Eastern pop.