An old-school chippie popular with cabbies and local workers, Masters Superfish is something of a south London institution – a canteen-like room packed with personality serving many types of fish straight from Billingsgate. Among its charms are the complimentary spread of tiny, sweet shell-on prawns, crunchy pickled gherkins and onions, bread and butter, and sauces that come with each main course order. But don’t fill up too much on the free stuff as the portions here are huge.
Fried whitebait was a seemingly bottomless pile of non-battered, crispy little fish with a squeeze of lemon. A main course of Superbites was enough for two, with around eight fist-sized hunks of cod, plaice, huss (rock salmon) and haddock, and a generous portion of chips. Batter was crisp with meaty, super-fresh fish inside, while chunky chips were a little dry but well-proportioned with soft centres. Mushy peas were as they should be – piping hot and full of texture and sweetness.
It was once only for those in the know, but Masters Superfish is now firmly on the tourist map. Prices have increased accordingly, and unfortunately the standard of service has fallen, with staff neither attentive nor knowledgeable on our visit. But that’s not a reason to give it a swerve, especially as its takeaway hatch serves all the favourites at lower ‘to go’ prices.