This stalwart of London’s dim sum parlours is always a pleasure to visit. Its perennial popularity ensures a lively atmosphere, and its authentic, perfectly prepared little dishes are head and shoulders above most of Chinatown’s lazy offerings. The long dining room at this original Queensway branch is lined in mirrors and black lacquered walls, with depictions of curling waves and geese soaring above.
Some of the capital’s best little packages of Cantonese treats are served here. Beef balls feature wonderfully light ground beef enlivened with strong accents of ginger and water chestnuts. Delicious wun tun soup has light dumplings floating in a rich broth with an undertone of five-spice, adding a depth rarely found in this classic soup. Peruse the special dim sum menu for more innovative dishes: crab and spinach steamed dumplings, and prawn and chive packages in batter were both a delight.
We could happily eat solely from the dim sum list, but the main menu offers fantastic Cantonese and regional Chinese dishes. The shaolin monk vegetarian clay pot contained an outstandingly fresh assortment of Chinese vegetables: bamboo, lotus root, mini pak choi and tofu, all on cellophane noodles.