Celeb chef, author and world-food crusader Yotam Ottolenghi has moved upmarket with destination restaurants such as Rovi and Nopi, but his trailblazing café-deli chain is still a Mecca for fans of his cookbooks and colourfully eclectic cuisine. The Islington flagship shows how it should be done, with inviting window displays and a long counter piled with bowls and platters of food that look so darned healthy. From zingy salads to cooked dishes such as chargrilled salmon with smoked paprika and lemon aïoli or sweet potato kebabs with pickled vegetables, everything is a masterclass of vibrant flavours, contrasts and textures. Breakfast means DIY toast and a host of other items; cakes and pastries are perfect for an afternoon takeaway, and evenings are for smart bookable dinners with fusion overtones. The only downsides are small portions and a not-so-small bill.
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