Norfolk Arms

‘This is the most exciting opening in the vicinity in recent times.’ You wouldn’t know it as no date is given, but the Time Out quote adorning the front page of the Norfolk Arms website celebrated its seventh birthday in 2013. From E1 to W1, London is full of bars and restaurants that have been coasting for ages on the back of a good review received years earlier. Happily, the Norfolk Arms isn’t one of them; although 2006 no longer qualifies as ‘recent times’, this smaller-than-it-looks corner pub retains its place among the best in the area. Unusually, the speciality is tapas – and pretty authentic tapas at that. The menu is worryingly long, but the kitchen seems to be on top of things. Highlights – all served in very generous portions given the reasonable prices (few of the standard tapas cost more than £5.50) – included a casually creamy tortilla; fennel and blood orange salad with flaked almonds; and deliciously light salt cod and potato croquettes. Only a slightly faded serving of pork belly with paprika struck a bum note in what was otherwise an impressive, enjoyable meal. Staff seem to give priority to diners over drinkers, and few people seem to come here for libations (draught Sagres, Theakston’s XB) alone.