Dissatisfied with how sriracha chilli sauce balanced with his phở, Hiếu Bùi, the godfather of London’s Vietnamese food movement, set about manufacturing his own version, replete with his uncle Vinh’s picture on the bottle. Try it in many of the superb dishes at Hiếu’s restaurants, which include London’s Kêu chain and Cây Tre in Hoxton and Soho. The Soho branch is chic, spacious, modern and renowned for its Vietnamese noodle soup, phở. The signature bone marrow version is particularly notable; the bowl comes spectacularly topped with a marrowbone, which has been cooked in broth, then grilled under a robata. The beautifully clear broth is made by simmering beef bones for 24 hours. This is flavoured with an accomplished balance of spices including cinnamon and star anise. The spices are carefully selected and, like the sriracha, shipped from Vietnam. Inside the broth there are fresh rice noodles, delivered daily from Chinatown, as well as rare steak and tender brisket. Hanoi style steamed rice rolls (bánh cuốn) are another essential dish here. The batter is made from freshly ground rice flour, resulting in a delicately thin, translucent roll filled with minced pork, Asian mushrooms, shallots and pork floss. Do order the accompanying cinnamon sausage.
Time Out tip For a deep dive into authentic Northern Vietnamese cuisine, the Hanoi platter (bún đậu mắm tôm) is legit. It comes with blood sausage and a fermented shrimp dipping sauce. Not for the faint hearted, but perfect for the more adventurous or a Vietnamese native like me.
Where to find it: 42-43 Dean Street, W1D 4PZ
