Levant (CLOSED)

At a time when Middle Eastern cooking is enjoying a renaissance – served in bright modern venues and produced by kitchens doing interesting things with colour and flavour – there’s something endearingly archaic about Levant’s 1001 Nights aesthetic. The huge underground space is decorated in red and gold or dark wood, dripping with filigreed lamps and lined by pools with red gerberas floating on the surface. The entire look speaks of banquets and belly dancing, and it’s no surprise there’s a programme of evening entertainment here, as well as long tables designed for riotous parties. On a weekday lunchtime, though, this is a quiet, comforting place with sweet, charming staff and an excellent-value set menu. The food isn’t especially memorable, but it’s certainly hearty and generous. Falafel were excellent, creamy and crunchy and fresh from the hot oil, though tagines were let down by soggy couscous and a uniformity of flavour. Nevertheless, bread arrives fresh and hot from the oven, like a scented pillow exuding hot air; it needs to be eaten quickly before cooling to a cardboard state. Such details signify that Levant’s intentions are sound, and that it wants to show you a good time.