Hampshire Hog

The Hampshire Hog in Hammersmith sounds like the start of a tortuous tongue-twister, but it’s actually a ‘pub and pantry’, run by the team who put the Engineer gastropub in Primrose Hill on the map. Spacious and bright, with white walls, fancy mirrors and distressed furniture, it’s an attractive place. Drinkers congregate at the front,diners at the back, next to the best feature: a large, partially shaded terrace and garden (though the rows of outdoor tables suggest it must get uncomfortably packed in good weather).

The menu is more restaurant than pub, with Asian and Middle Eastern touches as well as standard gastro fare (gnocchi, ribeye and chips). Generous portions and plentiful (good) bread mean you won’t go hungry. However, all our dishes were lacklustre, from the vegetarian sharing board with its limp tempura tofu and dried-out crudités to a special of overcooked stuffed chicken breast. Pork neck stuffed with apricot and tarragon was tender but lacked flavour, and dull vegetable purées popped up everywhere. The wine list offers plenty of choice by the glass, carafe and bottle, but beer drinkers won’t be impressed. Service was well meaning if gauche.