Slowly making its way across London, Dirty Bones has finally arrived in its spiritual home: east London. Across the road from Shoreditch High Street station, the third branch of this faux dive bar couldn’t have a more fitting location.
Serving the same American-style comfort food as its Kensington and Carnaby Street restaurants, the dishes are packed with flavours that smack you around the face with the clout of a heavy-bottomed pan. In addition to mainstays such as burgers, hot dogs and ribs, a chargrilled lamb cutlet came with a punchy chimichurri sauce that flooded the taste buds without overpowering the juicy meat, while a robata-grilled aubergine and gruyère side dish was full of distinctive, balanced flavours. However, both felt slightly out of place on the otherwise casual and (for lack of a better word) ‘dirty’ menu, which largely focuses on poshed-up dude-food and home-style cooking.
Big flavours and portions, along with an electric atmosphere, make Dirty Bones great for a group night out, though I wouldn’t recommend taking a first date there – you won’t hear a word they say over the excessively loud music. But perhaps that’s the point.