This venerable boozer is now owned by the Nicholson’s chain, and some won’t appreciate the branded menus – they’re reminiscent of a theme pub rather than a Soho one-off of great antiquity. But ignore them and look around you, at the lovely tiled walls, big mirrors, original light fixtures and well-seasoned wood.
The D&D remains incredibly popular, though weekday afternoons are relatively leisurely for a quiet pint chosen from a small, changing list of real ales. At night: you’ll be lucky to get a seat and even luckier to get one at the prized copper-topped tables at the back. In any weather more clement than a typhoon, the crowd spills out on to the pavement. They love the place, and so do we.