The Reliance

There aren’t many Leeds eateries that can claim to have caused as much of a stir outside Yorkshire as The Reliance. Heralded by food critics in national papers and adored by the denizens of Leeds, the pub restaurant compensates for an awkward location with high-end cuisine that compels diners to sing its praises to all who will listen.

Serving seasonal food from an open-plan kitchen, The Reliance has struck a balance between top-quality dining with an expensive feel yet reasonable price, and a relaxed bar where local IPAs and European bottles can be sampled while giving the weekly quiz a shot. The decor is that of a modern bistro, with mismatched chairs and whitewashed walls, and the meticulous work of the kitchen staff is fun to watch as you wait to be served.

An evening visit after a very busy day might sometimes result in a thinned menu, and speed of service varies, but the food is worth any waiting you might have to endure. The deep-fried and breaded arancini, which have the initial texture of scotch eggs that gives way to sticky, peppery risotto rice, are well-matched with their accompanying creamy orange romesco sauce. The pork fillet and black pudding special is well portioned, delicious and proves a welcome substitute for the standard roast dinner, with crunchy, sweet Chantenay carrots and a side order of heavenly, buttery clouds of mash. All of Reliance’s dishes are so beautifully presented that it only feels right to take time to savour every morsel, in keeping with the room’s laid-back, almost maritime ambiance.

The banoffee pie is a triumph, with a thick, crunchy biscuit base, silky caramel, sweet banana slices and fluffy whipped cream topping. Wine recommended by the bartender is carefully chosen, and two courses with a shared bottle should cost no more than £25 a head – perfect for lazy, indulgent weekend dining.