Pudu
Photo: Hizwan Hamid
Photo: Hizwan Hamid

The ultimate guide to Pudu

Featuring the best things to do and eat in this historic KL neighbourhood

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Once an untrodden gem shrouded in thick forest, and hence its moniker ‘Poon San Pah’, Pudu is now characterised by a wealth of street eats and historic architecture. We list the top things to do and eat in this neighbourhood teeming with local culture and a sense of the past.

  • Hawker
  • Pudu
Go on a food trail along Pudu’s Wai Sek Kai
Go on a food trail along Pudu’s Wai Sek Kai
Jalan Alor may be the mecca of KL street food but Pudu’s Wai Sek Kai is a TV producer’s dream. Hawkers ply their business under the glare of street lights while patrons work their chopsticks furiously away, digging into Tai Bu Mee (Hakka noodles), pork intestine porridge, fried radish cakes and seriously addictive fried chicken. All this takes place against a backdrop of decades-old Pudu flats and shophouses – it’s a raucous scene that looks straight out of an Anthony Bourdain food documentary. A single measly plate of grilled fish will easily cost you RM50 on Jalan Alor. In Pudu? That would buy you ten satisfying, tasty bowls.
  • Pudu
Explore the new and old on Jalan Sin Chew Kee
Explore the new and old on Jalan Sin Chew Kee
Inevitably, one of KL’s most charming streets is gradually submitting to gentrification, a cause for concern for residents and old-time business owners. As you sigh in resignation, you might as well drown your worry at Barlai, a bar that shares the same lot with Ng Seksan’s Sekeping Sin Chew Kee.
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  • Attractions
  • Historic buildings and sites
  • Pudu
Take a photo of the iconic Pudu Jail façade
Take a photo of the iconic Pudu Jail façade
On June 21 2010, amid much controversy and public outcry, the 115-year-old Pudu Jail, which ceased operations in 1996, was demolished to make way for redevelopment (word is that a KLCC-like shopping behemoth is in the pipeline). The relics of one of KL’s oldest and most iconic structures – the main prison gate and a portion of the exterior wall that once housed the world’s longest mural – remain nostalgic favourites among shutterbugs and wistful locals.
  • Health and beauty
  • Spas
  • Pudu
Get a retro hair salon experience at Lee Ying
Get a retro hair salon experience at Lee Ying
Ever wondered how your grandparents went about getting perms, shaves and haircuts back in the day? Probably somewhere like Lee Ying Hair Dressing Salon, the go-to place for a retro hair salon experience. Kitted out with antique barber chairs and a vintage towel steriliser as ancient as the shop itself, this twee, old-fashioned establishment has been a Pudu stalwart since 1955.
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  • Shopping
  • Tailors
  • Pudu
Order a bespoke dress from Kedai Sister
Order a bespoke dress from Kedai Sister
The tailors here are true sewing virtuosos, known for accommodating odd requests (eg sewing buttons to socks) and for preserving the intricate pleating on the most delicate of fabrics. Kedai Sister’s loyal clientele consists of housewives, grandmothers and even young ladies, whose parents have patronised the tailoring service here for more than 30 years. The affordable price of their bespoke dresses is definitely hard to beat.

What to eat

  • Chinese
  • Pudu

A good curry broth is oftentimes a solo performer. Its flavours are robust, creamy and assertive, and the rest of the supporting ingredients – yellow noodles, long beans, tau fu pok, pig skin and cockles – can’t help but dance to its spicy tunes. And it’s exactly this sort of broth that holds 168’s curry noodles together. The chewy noodles are slicked with curry while the airy tau fu poks – when bitten into – create mini explosions of flavour in our mouths. A refreshing, fleeting hint of mint wafts up every time we draw the noodles to our lips. Take note of the accompanying sambal, which pulls no punches – it burns. 

  • Street food
  • Pudu
Sometimes, the best dessert is the kind that arrives in a plastic bowl. Sulaiman’s cendol is a revival of a childhood staple – one you’ll often find by the roadside hawked by an old Indian uncle. Slithery green cendol, coconut milk, kidney beans and gula Melaka slosh around in a bowl of shaved ice as Sulaiman churns out one after another to a long line of customers. It seems this simple treat is being given the reverence it deserves; unfortunately that means you’ll have to stand in queue for a while.
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  • Chinese
  • Pudu

Preparing a perfect bowl of wantan mee is all about timing. The cook at Restoran 168 takes some egg noodles twined together like a ball of yarn and unspools them in boiling water before dunking them in cold water to maintain their springiness. After a quick toss in dark soy sauce, the noodles are crowned with slivers of char siew and chopped scallions. Why are we sure this is good? The proof is in the dumplings.

  • Chinese
  • Pudu
Housed in a single coconut shell, Keong Kee’s famed coconut herbal chicken soup exudes a sharp herby tang, coupled with a faintly bitter aftertaste – Chinese herbal soup doesn’t get more comforting than this. Of course, it’s not the only soup you should try from the long-running street stall’s myriad steamers – we also recommend the ginseng root and old cucumber varieties.
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  • Chinese
  • Pudu
This decades-old stall ladles up bowl after bowl of noodles for those looking to catch a break in the printing district. The herbal broth alone is something to relish: It’s the colour of black tea and delicately spiced, mildly sweet and deeply complex all at once. Throw in housemade beef balls, strips of brisket and fresh, starchy noodles for an expert play on flavours and textures.
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