Nasi Lemak Famous

Like an angsty teenager, Bangsar has gone through many phases – unobtrusive residential area, clubbing haven, art and culture quarter, and now, café district. But Nasi Lemak Famous is a constant among the shifting pieces, which is to say that our unconditional yearning for nasi lemak at supper time is… well, a constant. The early ’90s vibe here is comforting – a small-screen TV runs Malay soap operas on loop, couples sip on teh o’ limau ais and chat for hours, and stray cats weave in between the legs of plastic chairs. Occasionally, a well-dressed executive waltzes in with a pack of Marlboro Lights to remind you that you’re still in Bangsar.

Ayam goreng rempah seems to be what draws the regulars but truth be told, I’m more infatuated with the nasi itself. The rice has a proper amount of lemak and pandan, and remains light without any throwing about of the word ‘kukus’. Meanwhile, the banana leaf on which the rice is served emits a faint aroma. But the chicken still sings – crunchy, dark auburn batter that envelops warm meat. Don’t commit the unpardonable sin of choosing a breast piece; go straight for the leg or thigh if you want a proportionate ratio of skin and flesh with every bite. For the full artery-busting package, ask the kakak to spoon crisp chunks of fried batter onto your plate.

The sambal here is one that has sparked debate in the past but I like that its natural sweetness is derived from onions as opposed to lazy helpings of refined sugar. Chilli is used sparingly and doesn’t distract from the santan in the rice. If you want to add to the extravagance, there are sides like sambal paru, rendang daging, fried tempe and begedil, all that maintain Nasi Lemak Famous’s fans-endorsed title of best nasi lemak in Bangsar.