1. Notre-Dame-du-Mont
Marseille, France
Once it was all about the picturesque charm of Vauban, but nowadays Marseille’s cool crowd prefers the rebellious spirit of Notre-Dame-du-Mont. Named after a church, this decidedly unholy area is made up of colourful cul-de-sacs, graffiti-covered alleyways, streets lined with plane trees and twisting staircases that lead down from Cours Julien. Around the metro, new arrivals from Paris and beyond can be found sunning themselves on the terraces along Rue de Lodi, mingling with a diverse crowd of punks and their dogs, women in colourful robes, and salty old sailors sipping 8.6 beer. Once known as the artists’ district, these days the neighbourhood has the jovial, laidback feel of a local market. For a small area, it’s home to a remarkable concentration of galleries, lively restaurants, chic and community-minded shops and new spots hidden behind pizza trucks.
The perfect day After filling up on brioche at Pain Pan, an iconic neighbourhood bakery with its lemon-hued façade, take a stroll through the market adjacent to the metro. Head up to Galerie Charivari on Rue Fontange, home to a collection of paintings, sculptures and ceramics from curator Muriel Feugère. Halfway down the alley, take a somewhat precarious seat and knock back a strong dose of caffeine at Razzia – or you could tuck into an incredible octopus kebab at Caterine – before leafing through the selection at Histoire de l’Œil bookshop. Catch a film at bistro-turned-cinema La Baleine, followed by a drink on the terrace at the must-visit Café la Muse. When the heat starts to subside, head to dinner at Livingston, before calling it a night at Mama Shelter.
Plan your visit Livingston hosts a rotation of chefs in residence. Until February, you’ll find Anh Dao Nguyen, former sous-chef for Livingston’s founder Valentin Raffali, in the kitchen showcasing cuisine inspired by her travels.
📍 Discover our neighbourhood guide to Notre-Dame-du-Mont and the best things to do in Marseille