Jin Thai

Small but sleek, like a little lacquered jewel box, this Edgewater Thai joint boasts a few lesser-seen dishes and does standards solidly enough to become your weekly neighborhood BYO. You certainly wouldn't have to repeat often: The deep menu includes two dozen apps (crispy taro wrap, shrimp cakes and the coconutty crêpe stand out), eight salads (including a bracingly tart and extra crunchy green papaya), a dozen soups (try the boat noodle with beef), a handful of rice dishes (tom yum shrimp fried rice wins for sheer ingenuity), a dozen noodles (a tilapia curry take on kanom jin is interesting) and nearly two dozen entrées, half of them leaning on seafood. There are also a half-dozen desserts, but with a menu this broad, we doubt you'll ever get to them.