Eataly Chicago guide: reviews of 22 restaurants

Hidden around the corner from Vino Libero, the upstairs coffee bar Caffè Vergnano is everything we want Italian coffee to be. It’s the perfect last stop after gluttonous snacking, before heading home with your loot. Here there are no fussy drinks laden with chocolate, sugar and whipped cream like downstairs, just impeccably pulled shots of Vergnano espresso served in minimalist cups. For those less brave, a simple caffè macchiato is topped with a soft foam of milk. Stand at the bar and chat with the charming and knowledgeable staff, nibble on your foil-wrapped biscuit and try to pull yourself out of a wine- and-cheese-induced stupor. Opens at 10am.—RS

When you want to sit at a counter, but can’t commit to one of the specialized restaurants, there is La Piazza, located smack in the center of the second floor. There’s a wine bar in the middle and surrounding that are La Mozzarella (fresh mozzarella served with vegetables or prosciutto), Il Crudo (raw oysters, clams and crudo), Il Fritto (various fried items) and Salumi & Formaggi (charcuterie and cheese). This is also a good option for grazing and trying lots of items. Make sure one is the supplí, three fried risotto balls stuffed with cacio di roma, a rich, melted cheese. They’re crisp and perfectly salted. On our visit, the crudo—“Italian-style sashimi”—consisted of two buttery little scallops and slices of snapper lightly olive oiled and salted and topped with sea beans. While thickly sliced mozzarella, layered with roasted beets and olive tapenade, was tiring (an entire ball of mozzarella is a commitment), the grand platter of cheese and salumi was teeming with delights, like perfect folds of mortadella, a stunning example of Parmesan and honey. Opens at 11am.—AC

Probably the shortest line I encountered while at Eataly belonged to Focaccia, which is quietly tucked away on the second floor and easy to miss (I walked by twice before asking for directions). The classica focaccia is flavorful, with just the right sprinkling of sea salt, but used so much olive oil that my hands were dripping with grease after the first bite. The flavor seemed to be missing from the squash, basil and ricotta slice, which could have benefitted from more of the sparingly used chili pepper. The best option seems to be the sandwiches—the prosciutto crudo di parma 18 months is the exact right balance of salt and flavor with complementing textures from the focaccia, prosciutto, arugula and tomato. Plus, it was more than enough sandwich for one person, which makes it perfect to share, so you can try more of Eataly's offerings. Opens at 11am.—ED

For those who don’t want to wait, there is the vegetarian restaurant. While other restaurants and counters often have lines, you can typically waltz into the veggie restaurant, where raw vegetables and overly cheesy dishes comprise most of the menu. The pinzimonio, a rainbow of raw vegetables, is served with anchovy dip, a creamy, salty, savory sauce that I’d happily eat on everything, ever. But the mashed broccoli bruschetta, tender spinach-filled cannelloni and thick circles of gnocchi with a mushroom ragù depend too much on cheese, and this is from someone who treats cheese as its own food group. They’re delicious, of course, but I was hoping for more dishes celebrating vegetables. Opens at 11am.—AC

Landlocked Chicago isn’t known for seafood, and Eataly’s fish counter proves to be an enchanting oasis (fresh razor clams? Yes, please.) The fish here is used in the dishes at Il Pesce, which is sandwiched in the middle of the sprawling second floor. We tried one of the daily specials from the chalkboard and were treated to seared sea scallops with fennel and lemon vinaigrette, tender and perfectly cooked. Save yourself the market price of an entire fish and order the fritto misto, a massive jumble of Italian beer-battered calamari, baby squid and shrimp with a bright spray of lemon juice. Pair it with the insalata mista, a chopped salad, and you’ll have more than enough for two. Opens at 11am.—RS