There is no restaurant called Gordon Ramsay in Bristol, nor a Marcus (Wareing) or Alan Ducasse at The Dorchester. If you’re going to put your name above the door, you’ve got to be very confident in your ability as a chef.
The nearest Bristol has to an eponymous restaurant is Wilks, owned by James ‘Wilks’ Wilkins and Christine Vayssade. And Wilkins’ confidence has paid off – just over a year after opening in 2012, the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star, making it one of only three in the Bristol area to hold that distinction, alongside Casamia in Westbury-on-Trym and the Pony & Trap in Chew Magna.
Wilkins began his career in London working for the likes of Ramsay and the Galvin brothers, followed by a stint with triple Michelin star chef Michel Bras in France and Japan. Classical flavour combinations are mixed with both traditional and modern techniques here, with a particular emphasis on West Country produce.
Among the starters, try the tian of Dartmouth crab with quinoa, mango and wild sorrel (£10). Mains, mostly above the £20 mark, can include red mullet fillets, corn-fed Goosnargh guinea fowl breast and roe deer saddle and haunch. The Sunday roast is something special, especially the beef Wellington truffle and Madeira jus. Small pieces of pottery on each table made by The Village Pottery on Princess Victoria Street in Clifton add a nice touch.