‘An eclectic French dining experience’ is what Le Truc promises – and boy does it deliver. The restaurant is adorably wacky, poking fun at the seriousness of Gallic gastronomy, while still serving up a culinary tour de force.
Le Truc is an oasis of Francophilia in the midst of Chinatown. It’s technically a part of the Arcadian complex, but is a far cry from the soulless bars and chain restaurants found there.
Instead, character is written all over the walls from the moment you walk in. The elegant and the ridiculous vie for your attention – here a delicate glass chandelier, there a mounted pink poodle head. Posters, chalkboards and little framed pictures cover the walls, creating an endearing atmosphere of frenetic chic.
However, when it comes to the food, tradition reasserts itself. Expect French classics such as moules marinières (£6.50) and sautéed Burgundy snails (£7), while the pan-fried sea bream has a mouth-watering flavour and a gorgeous texture. There’s also a selection of choice cheeses from across the Channel.
The adventurous cocktail menu is well worth a punt. Cointreau, absinthe and other liquid treats go into drinks such as Grounds For Divorce and Death In The Afternoon. You have been warned.