Jolesch

Some of the greatest spots for Germanic food in Berlin are actually Austrian: classic dishes such as Wiener Schnitzel (which is with veal) and Tafelspitz (braised beef) originate in Vienna, the ancient Imperial centre of Europe. One of the best-loved restaurants for schnitzel is Jolesch, a low-lit, wood-panelled dining room in Kreuzberg, catering to savvier locals since 1992. A proper schnitzel is a true glory to behold: an enormous disc of golden brown should leave no part of the plate exposed. All it requires is a slice of lemon and a side of potato and cucumber salad to cut through the fat. The classics here are undisputed, but are also accompanied by a chef’s menu with seasonal and often adventurous dishes such as venison with quince or hay-smoked lamb’s tongue. Spare room for one of the luxuriant cream cakes laid out on a central dessert table or a plate of Kaiserschmarrn to share: the fluffy, eggy pancake with plum sauce that was an imperial favourite.