Vivid colour and complex patterns are an essential part of the landscape in Accra and this is reflected in the textiles worn by Ghanaian women. In the typically bold palette, jewel tones, fragmented floral patterns, illusory monochromes and practically every other conceivable combination of colour and texture are realised. Wildly patterned wax-printed batik cloth is extremely egalitarian in Accra. Street vendors and socialites both wear it. A clear difference in quality may be evident but to the spectator the net effect is of cultural unification. Reinterpreting wax-printed fabrics has become extremely popular, and the results are a gorgeous synthesis of traditional and modern fashion.
One of the most recognisable symbols of Ghana, kente, an Asante ceremonial cloth, represents numerous aspects of Ghanaian ethical, philosophical, social and religious heritage through variations in colour and pattern. Initially, kente was strictly owned by Asante royalty who kept it for social and spiritual assemblies. Hand-woven silk or cotton yarns are spun into four-inch wide lengths to weave kente. These pieces are arranged and hand sewn together to create a large panel. Although machine made kente is now widely available, it is still reserved for formal occasions. The dramatic colour and texture in kente is echoed in wax-printed fabric. It's an attractive surrogate of kente and it too has cultural resonance and legacies.
Ghana inherited the wax printing technique from Indonesian batik imports during the times of the Gold Coast. Ghanaian wax-printed fabrics are commonly designed to allude to proverbs, traditional stories and marital status. Cheaper versions of cloth are produced as uniforms for businesses; these are generally printed with a company name as the main motif. Audaciously printed fabric is also used as an effective tool of mass communication for political parties and religious groups. Wax printed fabric pops up all over Ghanaian life. It is given to guests at engagements, sold at the mall and at the market; it is available in more hues, patterns and prices than any other product in Ghana.
This ambitious diversity in fabric design is due in part to the discerning eye of Ghanaian women, to whom presentation is imperative. Occasion-appropriate dressing is de rigueur; funerals, weddings and engagements all require specific outfits. Most women employ a seamstress. Customers pick a style from a 'calendar,' a poster showing photographs of models in outfits. These designs are usually variations of the kaba (blouse) and slit (long skirt), a common ensemble. It's counterintuitive but it's actually more economical to custom make clothes than it is to buy clothes in a shop.
There is no dearth of design in Accra. More and more people design exciting wax print garments. At the moment, western silhouettes in traditional fabrics are very much in vogue. Sewing is a lucrative business so you'll find a seamstress operating an old-fashioned foot-operated Singer sewing machine in any busy area. Seamstresses tend to be very talented and they can interpret a western design or copy an existing dress. If the customer provides her own cloth, a dress usually costs between GH¢8 and GH¢10.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Discover Time Out original video